Day 21: Our Farewell Day

Today was our farewell day to both Israel and Jordan and the commencement of our homeward journey.

We were on the bus early, heading to the Northern Crossing into Jordan. We thanked Usama profusely for his incredible guiding of our group in Israel. We loved his sense of humour and how he understood ours, we admired his wide knowledge of biblical archeology, society and customs both now and 2,000 years ago and most of all his passion to keep Christians living in Israel and protecting the 'Holy Sites' - he has just completed his doctorate on this subject and wants to see it implemented. He in turn said he very much enjoyed being with our group because of our unity and care for one another. He said he had had fun - we certainly had fun too and there were peels of laughter as he related stories from other tour groups he had taken.

Finally, at the border with Jordan, we sadly parted from Usama and our driver, Saed. We transferred through to Jordan smoothly and were met warmly by Maha gathering us like a mother hen gathers her chicks, greeting us with hugs & laughter. On board the bus again with Jamal our driver, we drove up the Golan Heights area to Gadara (Umm Qais) with photo stops to take in the amazing view, then after a lunch stop, we drove through Amman to the airport. On the way, Maha had us share some of the highlights of our trip. They were many and varied, but each one brought back wonderful memories and we all recognised we would never be the same after this trip.

We all (except Cynthia and Michael) boarded the flight to Dubai and from there groups were going in different directions.

We all feel deeply grateful to God for the privilege of going to the Holy Land, for His continual protection (we never felt unsafe) and even the couple of troubles some people had did not detract from the joy of the trip. We also thank the Lord for wonderful new friends with whom we feel so linked in spirit and for revelation from the Sciptures. 

Thank you all for your prayers and support - we really felt it - and please join us in continuing to pray for the peace of Jerusalem, not as the world gives, but the peace of God that passes all understanding!

Here endeth the Blog!! 

Day 20: Around the Sea of Galilee and to the North

Today we are north of the Sea of Galilee.  We crossed the Jordan River as it flowed into Galilee - so we were like Jesus, on the "other side" of the Sea. First stop was at Kursi, the area of the Gaderenes.  The countryside was largely as Jesus saw it, with little development in 2000 years.   We saw the hills where the demon-possessed man lived, and where, after Jesus healed him, the herd of pigs ran into the Sea.  The site has a large 5th century Byzantine monastery, now in ruins. Then on to Korazim (or Chorazin) where Jesus proclaimed woe to the village because they saw the miracles but didn't believe (Lk 10:13).  It is a small village built of the local basalt rock, and partly reconstructed.  In the synagogue is a replica of the Moses Seat, where the synagogue leader sat to instruct the people - in Matt 23 Jesus warned that they didn't practise what they preached.  Excitement: there was a family of hyraxes living amongst the fallen stones - we last saw some at Ein Gedi. Tel Dan in the very north of Israel.  Three springs arise near here, flow through Dan and form the headwaters of the Jordan River.  The tribe of Dan were initially allocated their land on the coastal plain near Jaffa, but they couldn't oust the Philistines from the land, so eventually moved out and resettled here in the very north of the Promised Land - hence the phrase "from Dan to Beersheba" (which is in the very south of the land).  This land that they moved to was occupied by the people of Laish (Judges 18)  and we saw a magnificent mud brick arched city gate from about 1500BC.  It was to Dan that Jerobohm sent one of the gold calves in his establishment of a new way of worship, away from temple worship in Jerusalem (2 Kings 12) ... leading to the judgement on Israel and defeat by Assyrians.  We saw the area they built for the sacrifices. Travels around here in the Golan Heights are in the lands formerly part of Lebanon and Syria, before the 1967 war.  Just outside the bus was a no-mans-land managed by the blue-berets of the UN - numbers of UN vehicles on the road.  Had a great wayside stop to look across the border and into Syria.  Only 60km to Damascus. It felt very safe, not as some news reports from home imply. To Caesarea Philippi (modern day Banias) - where Jesus asks Peter, "who do you say I am?" and Peter acknowledges Jesus as the Christ (or annointed one).  This is the pivot point in all Gospels, for Jesus then turns south and heads for Jerusalem and his ultimate destiny.  This was a great finale for our trip to Israel and contrasts with the first site we visited in Israel a fortnight ago at Ein Gedi, where Saul and David, both of whom were the Lord's annointed, were tussling with each other. In Banias there are the remains of a cave and temple to Pan and other Greek gods, from the 3rd century BC where virgins were sacrificed. Springs forming the headwaters of the Jordan are here.  The temple is built into a great rock-face, and you can imagine Jesus using that location to make the relationship between the rock and the new name of Peter that Simon was given here. Herod the Great built a temple to Augustus here in 19BC- the first emperor to be deified and worshipped.  Later Herod's son, Philip the Teterach, built his capital city there and named it after both the emperor and himself.  Bit of historical trivia : Philip married Salome, the niece (and stepdaughter) of Herod Antipas (another son of Herod the Great), and the girl who was enticed by her mother to ask for the head of John the Baptist.  Salome was also the half-niece of Philip.  Are you confused with the family relationships?  Genealologists will have fun mapping their family tree and see the intermarriages, and incestuous relationships. Nimrod fortress - way up the hills on the side of Mt Herman.  A hugh fortress built and extended from 12 century AD by crusaders, Mamelukes, moslems etc as they protected one of the routes to Damascus.  It has no biblical reference, so few visitors.  We were the only ones there in the massive fortress, and some ran amok like kids in a playground maze! A relevant hymn for us concluding our pilgrimage in this area, by John Greenleaf Whittier:  Dear Lord and Father of mankind - second verse: In simple trust like theirs who heard, beside the Syrian Sea*, the gracious calling of the Lord, let us like them without a word rise up and follow thee. [*  this name for Galilee always confused me, but it is obvious when you see that Syria owned about half the Sea of Galilee until 1967] Janet and Ivan Photos: Kursi - Byzantine Church ruins; Place where Jesus cast out demons that went into the pigs; Korazim - Holding up Lawrence's arms as he sat on the "Moses seat" in the ancient synagogue; Our group on our last full day; Walking the paths of Tel Dan; Springs flowing in Tel Dan; Caesaria Philippi - site of Temples and the rock wall where Simon was made Peter; Nimrod Fortress; "Sir Philip of Nimrod"; UN Compound on border of Israel & Syria.

Day 19: Sites around Galilee

I After a lazy Sunday afternoon we were eager for another day in Galilee! 
Our day started in the dusky light in the golden glow of the morning sun travelling up the Valley of the Doves toward Mt Tabor. To get to the top of this Mt 2700 m above sea level we had to hop on small 10 or 14 seater buses which zigzagged their way up to the top! A great ride if you were on the Tour de France!  At Mt Tabor we saw another beautiful Antonio Baluzzi church dedicated to the Transfiguration of Jesus - an event where Jesus met Moses and Elijah and Peter suggested they built booths so people could come and worship them.  There is a commanding view of the Jezreel Valley where the battle between Sisera and Barak took place. 

On the way up the mountain we passed through a Bedouin town (no longer nomadic following a special offer from the Israeli government to settle there). On the way down we passed through the town of Daburiyya, the town where Deborah the prophetess lived (see Judges 4). The land around here is very fertile and full of agricultural pursuits including cotton, cattle and all sorts of fruit and veggies and we saw plenty of ploughing  going on ready to plant the next crops. The River Jordan ran past several times. 

We then travelled to Bet She'An ( house of the old wise man) or Scythopolis  before the Romans,  where King Saul and 3 of his sons bodies were hung on the city walls after losing a battle with the Philistines. We read the story from 1 Samuel 31- pretty gory! The town was conquered by the Romans and once again they reorganised the town into the "Cardo" the Main Street running north south and the "Decamonis" the second street running east west, built baths and a theatre and a hippodrome.   We have become so proficient in recognising the town planning we recognised it immediately well before our guide told us. Great training Usama. We even saw the remains of the best kept public "loos" and most people had to have a seat!! 

We stopped near the ancient town of Magdala (the town of from which that Mary Magdalene came from) and ate St Peters fish for lunch. This species it is said was the fish St. Peter caught when they had to pay the temple tax but they did not have any money ( see  Matt 17:24-27). Some were game and ate the whole fish others, less adventurous had the fillet. No matter what style it was very tasty.

Then on to three sites within a kilometre of each other in the region of Tabgha and only a 5 minute drive from our kibbutz hotel.

The first was on the mount of Beatitudes with an impressive Antonio Baluzzi eight sided church containing a separate beatitude on each wall. We have been trained well again by Usama as we guessed the architect straight away! Trust those Italians! This church was set in a beautiful garden that was so tranquil. Though it was bit too hot and humid to really appreciate it.

Next was the Church of the Multiplication where Jesus fed the 5,000 with 2 loaves and 5 fishes. Interestingly the mosaic in the church depicting the scene shows only 4 loaves in the basket. There are many theories why this was shown in this way, but the one that I like the most was the fifth loaf was Jesus and He is in heaven preparing a place for us. This Church had been recently firebombed and so some of it was boarded up! What a pity! 

Lastly we went to the Church of the Primacy of St Peter where Jesus asked Peter to look after His sheep after He asked him 3 times " do you love me?" The  church is located around the seven springs of Tabgha - 4  still running- that were less than 100 metres from the sea. This is a good fishing spot because the water creates an environment where algae grows. Where algae grows is where fish are. It was also commons practice for people from the beach to direct fishermen because they could see the schools of fish easier than the fishermen. And so when a man directed the apostles to put the net on the other side of the boat it was not unusual, but when they realised the catch was so bountiful Peter knew it was Jesus who had directed them. And what was waiting for Peter? a charcoal fire and Jesus's love for Peter. A complete contrast to the charcoal fire only a few weeks before where Peter had denied even knowing Jesus. It's amazing when the penny drops and we learn so much new information about the Biblical stories! 

We then drove along the road where it is believed that the parable of the sower was told! 
The last placed we visited was Capernaum the site where Jesus lived and taught for 2 years. The site of the synagogue has been found and a house under the church is believed to be Peters house. Archeologists found a room in this house that was plastered, the only one in the site, and concluded this was a special room that ancient believers used as a house church because it was believed Jesus had lived there as a guest of Peter. They also believe this is where the healing of the paralysed man took place let down from the roof by his mates. The views from the garden back over the lake were amazing as the sun began to sink! A long muggy day but oh so worth it! 

We were so blessed today to walk where Jesus walked and taught lived and ate!  An awesome experience almost surreal. But quite moving for many of us! 

By Frank & Michelle Ludovico.

Photos: Entering the Church of the Transfiguration on Mt Tabor; Painting in theChurch; The Cardo at Bet She'An; 'On the Loo' in public!; St Peter's fish for lunch; Wow! A coin in it's mouth!; Church of the Beatitudes at Tagba; Beautiful gardens; One beatitude plaque; Barry reading the Scriptures; Mosaic of loaves & fishes; On the beach where Jesus restored Peter listening to Bible reading again; Looking for fish in the water; Capernaum - wall of old Synagogue from Jesus's time under newer wall; Second Synagogue; Peter (statue!) and James!! - couldn't find John for the photo & we don't have an Andrew, Matthew was collecting taxes & Philip was evangelising!!

Day18: Kibbutz Tour and Boat Ride on the Sea of Galilee

John and Jenny's turn.

We were awake at cock's crow again, with some of us watching the sunrise over the sea of Galilee.

Tour of Nof Ginosar Kibbutz

First thing, after an incredible choice at breakfast, was a walk around Nof Ginosar kibbutz (Gannesaret), with guide, Adva, ( which means a ripple of water). Adva was born and grew up on the kibbutz, during what she described as 'the old days', as distinct from 'the new days'.
In 1937, the kibbutz started in Migdal(tower), 5 miles further inland, and this shoreline was swamp and rock. Pioneer agriculturalist's families settled in shacks, having fenced, and built a watch tower. Security was important to look after their water rights. River gum trees were planted  and land reclaimed.

There were many different kibbutzim, right wing, and left wing. This one was non-religious and leftist, and had the vision of equality - "put as much into the day as you can, and at the end of the day, you will all get the same". Profits went back into the kibbutz. Everything was provided, electricity; water; meals, ( cooked in a central diningroom); an approximately 55square metre home; nurseries; schools; libraries; social events on Shabbat rest days; an infirmary, and regular medical clinics.
Adva showed us all these through her family's eyes, describing how she felt as a child, a young adult, and a mother.
Women did the same work as men, their babies' going to nursery at 6 weeks, (with "love hours" for breast feeding mothers). "Quality time", as we call it at home,was enjoyed from 4.30 on working days when children went home until bedtime. Her memories were of walks, stories, and no TV.
In the old days the climate was cooler, and they produced nuts and fruit, and sold them all over Israel. This expanded with the Hotel. Then came "the new days! "


Changes -  children living with parents, members getting outside jobs, (with personal bank accounts, but still contributing to the kibbutz ), costly housing, education, the discovery of the Jesus Boat in 1986, and privatization in the nineties. Drought has added to financial loss. The lake was last up in 1991 and they 'pray for rain'. Adva emphasized that people have stuck together in the bad times, and good. 
We saw bomb shelters where they slept during the Six Day War in 1967, and watched young children play in school playground. Her experience was shared by many, growing up in a community of approx 500, including 200 children! Going to high school at a Jordan Valley secondary school for senior years; working for a while before traveling overseas, after 3 years in IDF. 
She shared so much with us, as Hotel guests, of the gift of nature and tranquility that blessed those living at Nof Ginnosar.

As we walked around the Kibbutz, high overhead to the east, was a fighter jet doing reconnaissance loops around Golan heights to the east, and leaving a puffy white plume. This brought us back to the reality that despite the apparent harmonious communities of Arabs and Israelis up here in Galilee, threat is not far away. In fact Syria is only 60 km from us.

On the sea of Galilee and the inspection of the "Jesus Boat".

We set off mid morning on The wooden boat named" Mark". The Australian flag joined the Israeli flag at the prow, as we joined singing "Advance Australia Fair ". We had the unreal experience of seeing through Jesus' eyes as we read from the Gospels about their exploits on the lake, the calming of the storm and Peter walking on the water at the bidding of Jesus. 

One of the crew cast a fishing net upon the sea similar to those which fishermen used in the first century. Of course he caught nothing, even though he tried it on the other side as well. They then taught us Israeli dancing on the deck to Hava Nagila. It was liberating!

Back on shore, we looked at the "Jesus boat" in the museum. This was discovered in 1986 when the lake receded in a drought, thus exposing some of the timbers which were remarkably preserved in mud. The very technical exercise of raising it and preserving it took some years, but now  the ancient structure is stabilized and in the Alon Museum on the shore. Ken recommended the rest of the museum (which not all of us saw) with its beautiful views from the tower.

All afternoon was much needed free time.

We ended the day with our own brief service before another magnificent meal  before retiring after a welcome restful day.


Photos: A house on the Kibbutz (residents discovered the 'Jesus' boat); Kibbutz view; Old Kibbutz dining room; The bomb shelter; On the boat on the Lake; Phil reading the Scriptures; Casting the fishing net; Where Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount; Hava Nagila - dancing & clapping; Ivan & Janet; The Jesus Boat; Alison having a dip in the Sea of Galilee; Jim returns from his latest challenge - swimming to the buoy and back!; A boat like ours on Galilee.

Day 17: Nazareth, Megiddo, Cana

Once again we would like to thank you for your prayers. We had another eventful day with many highlights of our trip that we will never forget.

Some of us awoke this morning to a pink sky over the Sea of Galilee. Unfortunately there was no time for most of us to have a morning swim (though some of us had a swim last night).

Today we visited Nazareth village, a reconstruction of what Nazareth would have looked like at the time Jesus was born. In the museum we saw a display of objects. As we walked around we saw a reconstructed wall from the first century, lithographs of Nazareth, a double edged sword and a Jerusalem cross.

As we walked outside we saw a donkey tied to an olive tree. Donkeys try to find the easiest route and walk along it. So these were used to determine where the roads should go in Nazareth.

As Matthew recalls it was prophesied that the Messiah would be a Nazarene. This is most likely a reference to Isaiah as the prophet predicts from the stump of Jesse would come a shoot. Nazareth comes from the Hebrew word "nazer" for a tree shoot.

There was a shepherd with a few hens, some sheep (including a young lamb) and some goats. We saw a donkey pulling a millstone to crush the olives into olive mush. Here we learned that Gethsemane comes from the Hebrew for Olive Press which deepened our understanding of the final hours before Jesus' death. Later we visited a carpenter named Joseph using his ancient tools in his shop and then we saw a lady called Hannah spinning and weaving wool. She explained how the wool was dyed e.g. yellow from saffron, red from pomegranate skins, blue and purple from the ink of sea shells (recall from Acts that Lydia was a dealer in purple cloth which was very expensive).

In a replica of a synagogue the guide (Maria an Arab Christian) read from Isaiah 61 which are the words Jesus read in the synagogue in Nazareth saying he was the anointed one, the Messiah come to proclaim the year of the Lord's favour. As we left the village, we were each presented with a little pottery oil lamp (the symbol of Nazareth village) and Maria encouraged us to remember that Jesus wants us to be His lights in the world.

We then proceeded to Tel Megiddo which was destroyed and rebuilt 25 times. Located at a critical point of the Via Maris (Way of the Sea) between the Mesopotamian and Egyptian empires, controlling Megiddo was vital to controlling trade in the region. Ruins have been discovered dating as far back as around 5000 BC

Some of us stayed with the bus, whilst others followed our guide around the ruins.

When Israel under Joshua conquered the Holy Land, Megiddo was allotted to a half-tribe of Manasseh.

Among the ruins was the remains of a manger, giving us an idea of the stone trough in which Jesus would have been laid. Megiddo was important during the reigns of the kings, notably David, Solomon and Ahab. Ahab built water works and some of us walked down 183 steps to go through the water tunnel (dry this time!!).

Two kings of Judah were killed here, Ahaziah and Josiah. Josiah was fatally wounded at Megiddo and died back in Jerusalem. Megiddo was abandoned in the 4th century BC. The President of Israel and the Pope met in 1964 at Megiddo.

In the 20th century two key battles were fought. Allenby routed the Turkish army at the end of World War I. Allenby was then called the Lord of Armageddon. Later, in 1948 in the War of Independence, Israel fought key battles against the Arabs at Megiddo. After the war finished, a Kibbutz was built by survivors of the Holocaust. Most notably, Megiddo is known as the place where Armageddon will be fought, as mentioned in Revelation.

Next we visited Nazareth and saw the Church of the annunciation, the biggest and newest church in the Holy Land. This church was built over the decade from 1959 to 1969. We also saw the church where it was believed Joseph's house was, glimpsed from a distance the Church over the tomb of "the righteous man" (possibly Joseph) and saw Mary's well (the well in Nazareth).

Finally, we visited Cana (the place where Nathanael, one of the disciples came from) where Jesus turned water into wine (his first miracle and the first of seven extraordinary miracles recorded in the book of John) where the married couples among us renewed marriage vows.  Then there was some wine tasting and we headed back to the hotel for some much needed rest - and for some of us another swim in the Lake of Gennesaret.

By Marlene and Matthew

Photos: Mal befriending a donkey at Nazareth Village; Shepherd with his sheep, goats & chickens!; Ruth & Maria; Nazers (shoots) at the base of the Olive tree; Donkey pulling the mill stone to crush the olives; Joseph the carpenter; Hannah & her weaving; Replica of a Synagogue; Walking the ruins of Megiddo; Manger made of stone; In Ahab's water tunnel; Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth. A wedding in Cana