Day 19: Sites around Galilee

I After a lazy Sunday afternoon we were eager for another day in Galilee! 
Our day started in the dusky light in the golden glow of the morning sun travelling up the Valley of the Doves toward Mt Tabor. To get to the top of this Mt 2700 m above sea level we had to hop on small 10 or 14 seater buses which zigzagged their way up to the top! A great ride if you were on the Tour de France!  At Mt Tabor we saw another beautiful Antonio Baluzzi church dedicated to the Transfiguration of Jesus - an event where Jesus met Moses and Elijah and Peter suggested they built booths so people could come and worship them.  There is a commanding view of the Jezreel Valley where the battle between Sisera and Barak took place. 

On the way up the mountain we passed through a Bedouin town (no longer nomadic following a special offer from the Israeli government to settle there). On the way down we passed through the town of Daburiyya, the town where Deborah the prophetess lived (see Judges 4). The land around here is very fertile and full of agricultural pursuits including cotton, cattle and all sorts of fruit and veggies and we saw plenty of ploughing  going on ready to plant the next crops. The River Jordan ran past several times. 

We then travelled to Bet She'An ( house of the old wise man) or Scythopolis  before the Romans,  where King Saul and 3 of his sons bodies were hung on the city walls after losing a battle with the Philistines. We read the story from 1 Samuel 31- pretty gory! The town was conquered by the Romans and once again they reorganised the town into the "Cardo" the Main Street running north south and the "Decamonis" the second street running east west, built baths and a theatre and a hippodrome.   We have become so proficient in recognising the town planning we recognised it immediately well before our guide told us. Great training Usama. We even saw the remains of the best kept public "loos" and most people had to have a seat!! 

We stopped near the ancient town of Magdala (the town of from which that Mary Magdalene came from) and ate St Peters fish for lunch. This species it is said was the fish St. Peter caught when they had to pay the temple tax but they did not have any money ( see  Matt 17:24-27). Some were game and ate the whole fish others, less adventurous had the fillet. No matter what style it was very tasty.

Then on to three sites within a kilometre of each other in the region of Tabgha and only a 5 minute drive from our kibbutz hotel.

The first was on the mount of Beatitudes with an impressive Antonio Baluzzi eight sided church containing a separate beatitude on each wall. We have been trained well again by Usama as we guessed the architect straight away! Trust those Italians! This church was set in a beautiful garden that was so tranquil. Though it was bit too hot and humid to really appreciate it.

Next was the Church of the Multiplication where Jesus fed the 5,000 with 2 loaves and 5 fishes. Interestingly the mosaic in the church depicting the scene shows only 4 loaves in the basket. There are many theories why this was shown in this way, but the one that I like the most was the fifth loaf was Jesus and He is in heaven preparing a place for us. This Church had been recently firebombed and so some of it was boarded up! What a pity! 

Lastly we went to the Church of the Primacy of St Peter where Jesus asked Peter to look after His sheep after He asked him 3 times " do you love me?" The  church is located around the seven springs of Tabgha - 4  still running- that were less than 100 metres from the sea. This is a good fishing spot because the water creates an environment where algae grows. Where algae grows is where fish are. It was also commons practice for people from the beach to direct fishermen because they could see the schools of fish easier than the fishermen. And so when a man directed the apostles to put the net on the other side of the boat it was not unusual, but when they realised the catch was so bountiful Peter knew it was Jesus who had directed them. And what was waiting for Peter? a charcoal fire and Jesus's love for Peter. A complete contrast to the charcoal fire only a few weeks before where Peter had denied even knowing Jesus. It's amazing when the penny drops and we learn so much new information about the Biblical stories! 

We then drove along the road where it is believed that the parable of the sower was told! 
The last placed we visited was Capernaum the site where Jesus lived and taught for 2 years. The site of the synagogue has been found and a house under the church is believed to be Peters house. Archeologists found a room in this house that was plastered, the only one in the site, and concluded this was a special room that ancient believers used as a house church because it was believed Jesus had lived there as a guest of Peter. They also believe this is where the healing of the paralysed man took place let down from the roof by his mates. The views from the garden back over the lake were amazing as the sun began to sink! A long muggy day but oh so worth it! 

We were so blessed today to walk where Jesus walked and taught lived and ate!  An awesome experience almost surreal. But quite moving for many of us! 

By Frank & Michelle Ludovico.

Photos: Entering the Church of the Transfiguration on Mt Tabor; Painting in theChurch; The Cardo at Bet She'An; 'On the Loo' in public!; St Peter's fish for lunch; Wow! A coin in it's mouth!; Church of the Beatitudes at Tagba; Beautiful gardens; One beatitude plaque; Barry reading the Scriptures; Mosaic of loaves & fishes; On the beach where Jesus restored Peter listening to Bible reading again; Looking for fish in the water; Capernaum - wall of old Synagogue from Jesus's time under newer wall; Second Synagogue; Peter (statue!) and James!! - couldn't find John for the photo & we don't have an Andrew, Matthew was collecting taxes & Philip was evangelising!!